Wow,
I can hardly believe it is already September and I’ve already been in Botswana
for more than a month and a half. Time sure flies, but in this case a little
too fast. I’m already feeling the pressure
of my visa expiring in mid-October and this means I’ll be a bit rushed on my
cycle trip across Botswana. That was
exactly what I was hoping to avoid, as I’d initially planned and pictured it as
a leisurely cruise, but oh well. Let’s
get up to speed on what’s going on out here.
I’ve
said it before but I’ll say it again, long term travel like this often has dull
or uneventful days. At this point I was
having a few of them and starting to get a little restless, however I wasn’t
able to move on just yet so patience was an order. One very important item I’d been waiting on
was this tent. I bought a large two
person tent in South Africa when I first came out here, but not only was it a
bit of an issue due to its size and weight, two of the poles got broken in
transport, so I had my mother mail me my backpacking tent from home. It’s a substantial upgrade given what I’ll be
using it for, and while I tried to find a quality tent here in Gaborone, there
were no good options. Having this piece
of equipment finally, I was nearing completion of my necessary gear.
The
next evening, after yet another day running around town in search a few items
such a bike computer, I joined Michael on the University of Botswana
campus. My previous time on campus was
just hanging out with the international students around the dorms, but on this
night I was happy to experience ‘411’, the student bar on campus with the
locals. It’s a pretty run down looking
place to be honest, but it is truly local, and the beers are only 9.5 pula, by
far the cheapest I’d seen anywhere to date.
In recent years, the president has been pushing to change Botswana
alcohol culture, including a near doubling of prices, reduced hours for bars
and reduced hours on bottle stores. I’m
not sure if it is a result of that campaign or not, but at the entrance to the student
bar, there is a sign that reads “Alcohol is like love, the first kiss is like
magic, the second is intimate, the third is routine. Control
your drinking, Too much alcohol can put you at risk of life threatening situations.” I’m not sure of the efficacy of these
efforts, to my eyes people here seem to drink pretty hard, when they can afford
it that is.
When
Paul and I had gone to Mokolodi Game Reserve for the (rather useless) animal
snare search a while back, we saw a sign for a star gazing night and decided to
go. We arrived at the park in the
evening after the sun had gone down and piled into the safari trucks for the
drive out to the site. I was unsure of
what to expect, but I was hoping for a telescope, a handful of people and a
clearly visible Milky Way. As we arrived
and climbed out of the trucks it seemed none of this was true. There were maybe 100+ people, no telescope
and the skies were a bit hazy. After
chatting for a while and eating a buffet dinner (which was pretty good by the
way) everyone sat down to a lecture of sorts about the skies above us. While I don’t intend to demean their efforts,
the older expat couple speaking were amateur at best and I couldn’t help but
feel disappointed by the whole event…
In
the morning, there was another farmers market and Paul, Stewart, Philipp and I
all set out to enjoy the afternoon. This
event was at a different location than the last, on a small farm 20 minutes or
so out of Gaborone. Being a rather small
community, I saw a number of familiar faces from the other event, but it was
well organized and enjoyable. The family
who owned the farm were not initially farmers, but after their home burned down
a few years back a new path in life emerged and the idea was born. We stuck around for a few hours looking at
the crops, eating food off the braii and even a bit of cotton candy from a
stand. In the afternoon we headed to the
Grand Palm Hotel and Casino for a drink, and then called it a day.
I
had time on my hands, so I decided to explore the city a big on my bicycle a
bit. One stop on my wanderings was the ‘Three
Dikgosi Monument.’ These statues,
depicting the founding fathers of Botswana are in the CBD opposite the new High
Court building and situated in a nice, clean, quiet park. Had I not wanted to keep exploring, it would
have been a nice place to sit with a book.
As I was leaving, the security guard stopped me and asked me to sign the
register book, then asked me if I wanted to pay or see the park for free. I was slightly confused by the question, but
as a fee was not required nor really justified, I opted not to hand over any
pula, and rode on through the city.
Another
day running around town. I dropped by
the post office on Main Mall to send a few post cards home to my family, met
Michael at UB, bought some gasoline for my MSR Whisperlite stove and fully
loaded my bike for the first time to test it out. I knew it was going to be interesting, but to
be honest I was surprised how much weight it all added up to and how it made
the bike feel. I’d never ridden a loaded
bike before and the fact I was not using panniers meant my center of gravity is
pretty high. Oh well, it seemed like it
was going to work well enough for my purposes, haha. That evening, I went wandering again, and
stopped to watch some students playing soccer in the last minutes of daylight.
Wanting
to spend a fair amount of time on my bike and because Michael and I had a good
time on our ride to the South African border the other week, this time we set
out for the Gaborone Dam. We intended on
visiting the Yacht Club, however due to three men dying in mysterious circumstances,
it was closed. We were not deterred in
our goal of getting lakeside, so we found a road that seems to be used for
testing out line-painting trucks and set off.
After
a short while on the road, we ducked off into the bush and walked towards the
water, eventually settling on a tall group of round boulders to chat and enjoy
the peaceful scenery.
We
saw one or two locals heading farther around the bend, so we hopped back on our
bikes to do some off roading. Now mostly
slick, semi-narrow tires are far from ideal when negotiating sand and bushes,
but I’m already going to be testing this bike to its limits, so I might as well
start now. After a bit more riding and a
lot more fun, Michael had to return to UB for class and we headed back through
the mud, sand, grass and thorns back into town.
Once
again, I had time to kill and realized I still hadn’t visited the National Museum. It is just at Main Mall and entrance is free,
so I locked up my bike to a lamp post and headed in. Now it’s certainly not the greatest museum around,
but it does teach a lot about the history of the country and has some fairly
nice exhibits of stuffed lions, vultures and bucks. One thing I found particularly interesting
however was the section on the San people (often known as the ‘bushmen’). The display was talking about how they find
water in the Kalahari desert, and explained how some of the roots shown here
can hold as much as three liters of water! (that is if you know how to find them)
The
next evening, it was back to UB with the international students. Instead of the student bar however, we went
off campus to a place called the Officers Mess.
Like the student bar, it is a very local affair, drinks are cheap, and
the patrons are almost entirely young males.
For
a few days now, Paul and I had been trying to find information on the ‘Afri-can
International Music and Cultural Festival’ to no avail. It was intended to be a large three-day festival
near the Gaborone Dam, but due to all sorts of organizational problems, it had
turned into a single day event, far out of town, with a whole lot less to do
than initially promised. It was supposed
to begin around 10am, but when we showed up around 2pm, all we saw was a huge
empty field and about 30 people sitting in the shade, made up entirely of the
UB international students! That said,
there was a large and truly professional stage, sound and light system,
probably the best stage setup ever to be built in Botswana (not kidding about
that) and it showed the lofty aspirations of the organizer. Unfortunately, there was almost no advertising,
and few people even knew the event was happening.
There
were supposed to be events and activities all day and to be fair, there was a children’s
bouncy-castle(!), but the music didn’t start until about 6pm. Despite the 5 hours of waiting, I was having
a great time hanging out, eating food and making new friends. The event might have been an obvious disaster
in terms of attendance, but it had a lot of potential, a good vibe and a faraway
but good location.
From
the first band going on until I left at about midnight, there was an excellent
mix of music; reggae, hip hop, jazzy stuff and more. The Metrophones and The Chicken Bus were two
standouts of the evening, putting on top notch performance’s that stand up
against just about any other festival show I’ve been too.
Despite
the small numbers, those of us who were actually there all had a great night of
music and dance. The audience comprised
of about half locals and about half international students were all in the
highest of sprits and the dancing, while dusty, was energetic and loose. Around midnight, I decided to call it a
night, and because Paul, Ally and Philipp had returned home earlier in the
evening, I took the provided shuttle bus back into town which was a nice (and
necessary) feature of the event.
Part
of the reason to leave the festival before the music was over, was that the
next morning I was joining Michael and his friend Kao to a church in the town
of Kanye. Kao’s mother is the pastor of this
small congregation, so she invited us to join her for the Sunday service. Now I’m not exactly a church-going person,
but it sounded like an interesting experience and one I wanted to take part
in. We met at the bus rank, and at
7:30am, caught a bus to Kanye. As it
didn’t take us all the way into town, we hitch hiked the rest of the way, a
common, safe and easy way to get around Botswana.
The
church itself is a non-descript white shoebox of a building, simple and
utilitarian from the outside, but inside richly decorated with colourful cloth
on the ceiling and walls and filled with about 35 plastic lawn chairs. The beginning of the service was mostly
singing, led by the five women at the front (Kao on the right) and then joined
by the whole congregation. The singing
itself seemed to be Christian standards with a bit of a Botswana touch, and the
sound was every bit as beautiful as that of the concerts the night before. Once the singing was over there were readings
from the bible, much talk of the ‘thirst for Jesus’, members coming to the front
for individual blessings (often resulting in them collapsing on the floor) and
finally the Sunday school kids giving some birthday presents to the
pastor. I was impressed and pleased I
woke up early to join.
After
the service, we joined Kao to visit some of her family in Kanye, and then hitched
the 95km back to Gaborone. I didn’t
arrive home until about 5pm, but maybe due to divine intervention, I arrived
home to Paul cooking up a huge feast on the braii, haha!
Because
I came to Botswana specifically to ride across it on a bike, it was time for a few
day test ride before the real deal. I
finally had all the necessary gear, and while I didn’t know where I was even
going to go, I loaded up my bike and set off for the first time. On the front of the bike, below the factory rack
is dual 10 litre water jugs, on the rack is my day backpack, and on the rear
rack is my tent and my large backpack. Between
my choice of bike, not buying cycling pannier bags and riding in flip flops, I
have to be one of the most foolish looking cycle tour riders ever, but hey,
that’s kind of the point!
I
headed south out of Gaborone, past Mokolodi and towards the town of Otse. Although riding through town was a bit dodgy,
once I was out on the open road it was smooth sailing. The roads in Botswana are quite good, some
places the shoulder is a full 4 feet wide and traffic is light. I was certainly feeling the weight of my
gear, but also feeling strong and confident.
About 25km into the ride, I encountered my first hill, a challenge for
the heavily loaded single speed bike and the out of shape rider sitting on it. I pushed on; realizing the only effective way
to climb was keeping my speed up as much as possible and refusing to stop. It wasn’t exactly easy, but it wasn’t too bad
either. At the apex, I stopped to catch
my breath, had some water, and let gravity take me down the other side.
The
reason I was headed to Otse was to see the Manyelanong Game Reserve, a spot
where engendered Cape Vultures nest on the cliffs. There is essentially nothing in Otse, but with
directions from the locals I found the Otse Wildlife Station and spoke with the
staff. I told the women I would be
camping somewhere, and without even asking, she said I could set up my tent in
the station compound in a carport.
Hoping
to see the vultures, I dropped my gear and rode to the base of the hill and the
cliff. The area is surrounded by a high
fence to protect the birds from interference.
After passing two women carrying bundles of sticks for firewood and a
man herding cattle, I arrived at the viewing point but the birds were nowhere
in sight. The only evidence of their
presence being the white poop stains on the rocks where they stay. I’d ridden 65km on this first day out, and
feeling a mixture of tiredness and excitement for my little journey, I returned
to my camp, cooked dinner, read in my book and went to sleep.
The
next morning I awoke early to check the birds again, but this time again it was
a bust, not a single vulture in sight. I
was told this was because they were in their nesting period and less active,
but a week or two back Michael had seen them when he visited, so I wasn’t sure
why I was having such poor luck. After
breakfast, I packed up my things and hit the road again.
Another
example of the roads I was riding. Once
again big shoulders, light traffic and well signed routes made for easy travel. On this day, I was passing through the larger
town of Lobatse and on to Kanye, then town I had just been for church on
Sunday.
Stopping
under a tree for some shade and a lunch break.
I
was feeling my legs from the day before, and this time I filled my water jugs
almost full to see how riding with the increased weight would affect
everything. On top of that, I had
headwinds that seemed to show up every time I was going up even the slightest
hill, making my work twice as hard. I’m
usually pretty tolerant of bad weather and though conditions, but wind just
irritates me like nothing else and from time to time found myself shouting at
it to leave me alone. The wind didn’t
seem to listen.
While
Botswana is usually a very dry country, as you ride you see evidence of what
must be a huge flood of water when the rains come and while I was very curious
what that might look like, I was also happy to be staying dry.
I
pushed on and up what seemed to be a 3-4km uphill into Kanye, bringing me into
town around 5pm. The sun was starting to
go down, traffic was at its peak and the riding was a bit challenging. Getting plenty of funny looks and cars
honking at me, I arrived at the grocery store on the other side of town, bought
some cold drinks, veggies, and pushed my way out of town as fast as possible,
trying to beat the rapidly falling sun.
Having
just been on this same route a few days prior, I knew the bush outside of town
would be a good place to camp and ducked off the main road down a dirt track to
look for a spot. As I arrived, I saw I’d
ridden 95km and was more than happy to get off the bike for the day. I set up camp between some thorn bushes,
cooked a delicious dinner under a thin layer of clouds and after more time with
my book went to sleep. I was awoken at
midnight not by people, but by two cows and the loudly clanging bells around
their necks. Unable to sleep with the
racket around me, I climbed out of my tent to scare them away but quickly
realized how futile these efforts would be.
Luckily I always carry ear plugs with me when I travel for noisy buses
or dorm rooms in backpackers, but I never thought I’d need them for bush
camping!
I
decided that this was only going to be a three day trip, as I knew what I
needed to know (that I had everything I needed, that the bike performed well, what
the roads were going to be like, etc) and wanted to get back to Gabs and
prepare to set off for good. This photo is
by far the largest hill I experienced on my ride. Luckily I was going down it, but I’ll be
headed in the opposite direction on the real ride and I now for a fact I’ll be
pushing the bike up this one…
Road
construction on the way to Gabs. I’m
pretty sure they just took every road sign and empty barrel they had and threw
them in the middle of the road, haha.
I
arrived back home at about 3:30, having pushed fairly hard for another 95km day;
for a total of 255km over the three days.
Not bad all things considered!
Everything went well, I was sore but confident in my setup and in
myself, and happy to know that this thing was finally happening.
I
spent the next day simply resting and recovering. But after that, I had work to do again. I’ll be crossing from Botswana into Zambia
next and it was not entirely clear the rules for entering Zambia as I’d read
conflicting reports. Luckily, the Zambian
embassy is right on Main Mall and I was told that yes, I can get a tourist visa
on arrival for $50, good for three months.
This was my understanding originally, but it was nice to hear it from
Zambia itself.
Locals
playing the ‘shell game’ outside Game City Mall.’ Every time I walk past they try to get me to
make a bet, however I know I’d just be throwing my money away on their tricks
and never take the bait.
Lying
in bed the next morning, I finally finished the book Dark Star Safari, by Paul
Theroux. I’d originally picked this book
up in Seattle before I started my trip, but it ended up getting forgotten at
home. Luckily I came across it again while
staying with Britt in her village a while back and took it with me. It is a wonderful story of an adventurous and
intelligent traveller in Africa, with fantastic observations on the current
status of the continent. I especially
enjoyed it because in Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique, and South Africa he was
writing about areas I’d been and things I’d seen as well and could compare his
observations to my own. It's probably as close to traveling in Africa as you can get without a plane ticket. Yes, I know that is an absurdly chicle description, but it's honestly true. Highly, highly recommended.
That
evening it was back to UB campus to join Michael and Michelle for a dinner and
dancing that was being put on by UB Grad Student Association. The evening consisted of a few dull speeches and
a dinner of cafeteria food that didn’t start until 9:30 or 10, but once the
music and dancing started, it turned out to be a very fun night. Not quite sure how it happened, but the three
of us ended up hanging around this small grad student party dancing until 3am!
Sundays
are usually for lazing around with Paul and the crew and after a bit of that
Paul, Philipp, Stewart, Stephan and I headed off to the dam and the Gaborone
Yacht Club for lunch. It used to be an
island apparently when water levels were higher, but today is a dirt road to
what is now just a rocky hill with a nice view of the dam and water. There is a large collection of kayaks, canoes
and small sail boats there in various states of functionality, and I didn’t see
anyone on the water the whole time I’ve been in Gabs, but the club is a pretty nice
place to relax and eat a meal.
From
there we decided to go back into town and the CBD for coffee. This is the Masa Center, one of the countless
new high end commercial developments in the city, and like the rest of them one
with questionable financial and business sense behind it… then it was back home
to complete the lazy Sunday with a movie.
Might as well enjoy my last days in the city, huh?
My last full day before my departure has been filled once again with running around town picking up last minute supplies and taking care of other errands. Moving into warmer weather and closer to the equator as well, I did yet another short of my gear and sent home some of my warm clothes. While it is a good feeling to reduce what I am carrying on my bike and later on my back, it seems that that as I get rid of one thing I add another. That said, the things I've been adding is camping gear which will give me a lot more flexibility in more rural Africa, so I guess I can't complain.
This evening Michael came over to say goodbye and I gave him my copy of Dark Star Safari, then I went to dinner with Paul and Philipp. We went out for Indian food and I ate like a fat kid, I figure it's my last proper meal before a long ride, so once again I might as well enjoy myself, haha.
Paul, thank you so much for your hospitality the whole time I've stayed with you. When I connected with you through CouchSurfing, I figured it would be for maybe a few days, instead I managed to become practically a full fledged housemate, staying for more than a month! I always felt at home at your place and staying with you has allowed me to both see and enjoy Gaborone properly as well as effectively prepare for my upcoming cycle trip. Thanks for being such a friendly guy and I hope I can return the favor some day.
So tomorrow morning I should be setting out if everything goes to plan: it is that from Gaborone I will ride 5-6 days to a small town where I will be meeting with Alex, another CouchSurfing host and Peace Corps volunteer, then on to Ghanzi. There, I am hoping to spend a few days in the bush with the San people but not sure if that will work out. Next, I will head north to Maun and the Okavango Delta, where I will hopefully do some animal watching, then east towards the Makgadikgadi salt pans and finally turn north at Nata towards the border with Zambia where I will reach Victoria falls. Sounds easy right? As I said above, I'm starting to run up against my 90-day visa expiring. My original idea was that I'd only spend two or three weeks in Gaborone at most, then would have a leisurely ride across the country. That's not going to happen anymore, so there will defiantly be days when I have to push depending on the days off riding I end up taking for other activities. Right now I'm just looking forward to setting out, testing myself and sleeping under the clear Botswana skies.
Stay tuned, this ought to be interesting!